No one can fail to be moved by a visit to Ypres, as it is known to the English and French, Ieper to the Flemings. Walking around this pretty medieval city, it is hard to imagine the incredible highs and lows it has endured. Extreme wealth in the Middle Ages and then, less than one hundred years ago, reduced to rubble during World War I. It is a fitting reminder of people's resilience and their ability to bounce back.