Cool Brussels

The centre of cool in Brussels has long been the adjoining areas of Ste Catherine and St Géry, where many 'artistes'� live and where many of Belgium's hip designers have their boutiques. In the evening, it's also where the young come to party, heading for the many trendy bars that line Place St Géry, but it's just as good for quiet dining: try the tapas at Le Fourneau (Place Sainte-Catherine 8) or Viva M'Boma (Vlaamsesteenweg 17) for traditional Belgian food.

Hot on its heels in the cool stakes are the areas that flank avenue Louise, namely St Gilles and Ixelles, including the Congolese area of Matonge. While St Gilles, with its Art Nouveau buildings, is elegantly chic, with place du Chatelain being the focus of activity - everyone who is anyone in Brussels drinks there on a Wednesday night - Ixelles is a bustling ethnic quarter that is much more down to earth. There are bars a plenty on rue St Boniface and Marche aux Charbons, but the classic that has been there forever is L'Ultime Atome (14 Rue St Boniface). And while you're in the area, make sure you see Cityscape, a piece of entangled wooden street art that is capturing the imagination of the Bruxellois this year.